Baohaus founder Eddie Huang shares his deep connection to Taiwanese beef noodle soup, a dish passed down from his mother and perfected over time.

Eddie Huang, the chef behind Baohaus, has a deep personal connection to Taiwanese beef noodle soup, a dish he learned from his mother and perfected over the years. In a new column, Huang explains why this simple yet rich dish holds so much significance in his life.

Huang’s first memory of Taiwanese beef noodle soup was comparing his mother’s version to those served in restaurants. According to him, the restaurant versions were lackluster—bland broths with no depth or character. Growing up in Orlando, Huang soon realized that many places, both in the US and Taiwan, cut corners when preparing this iconic dish. Some just used basic ingredients like ginger and spring onions, while others tried to elevate it with expensive ingredients like dry-aged beef or elaborate stocks—fancy additions that Huang feels aren’t necessary.

For him, the essence of a good Taiwanese beef noodle soup is not about the ingredients but about time. Huang believes that the longer the soup simmers, the richer the flavours become and the more tender the beef. He makes his own broth with two separate stocks: one for meat and bones, and another for the aromatics and sauces like ginger, garlic, soy sauce, and rice wine. This separation helps keep the broth clean, ensuring each bite remains consistent. The addition of fresh chilies and chili oil for an acidic kick sets Huang’s soup apart from the typical recipes, bringing a unique level of complexity to the dish.

Huang is also a firm believer in the addition of tomatoes, a divisive ingredient in Taiwanese beef noodle soup. While some purists avoid them, Huang sees the tomatoes as adding another layer of umami and acidity that balances out the richness of the beef. In his version, the combination of chilies and tomatoes provides the perfect contrast to the fatty broth, preventing it from becoming overwhelming.

As for the noodles, Huang is flexible. He’s served the soup with everything from Italian spaghetti to traditional Chinese wheat noodles, finding that the broth is what truly defines the dish. He’s also quick to note that while his version of the soup is distinct from his mother’s—especially with the use of chili oil and fresh chilies—his mother still holds the crown for home-style stir-fries and small dishes. In fact, Huang’s mom now prefers him to make certain dishes, giving him a subtle nod of approval.

For Huang, Taiwanese beef noodle soup is more than just a meal—it’s a way to honour his roots while creating something new. It’s a dish that speaks to his creative spirit and his lifelong desire to master the art of cooking. It’s this passion and dedication that have made the dish such an important part of his culinary journey and his memoir, Fresh Off The Boat. In the end, Huang believes that the beauty of Taiwanese beef noodle soup lies in its simplicity: beef, noodles, and soup—no rules, just time and love.